The following piece was written about 2007 during one of my regular trips into East and Central Africa to train community mediators. I would travel for six weeks from country to country teaching seminars organized by the local Quaker community through their organization the African Great Lakes Initiative. At one point in Burundi I had to go to the American embassy to get some pages added to my passport for several new visas I needed. Then I went across the border into the Democratic Republic of the Congo. The folowing are two little adventures along the way. A third brief story is on buying eye glasses in Burundi.
An
Embassy Adventure in Burundi and Crossing the Border into the Not So Democratic Republic of the Congo
by George Brose
Final bits and pieces of things I did and
saw but didn’t fit into my earlier letters.
It went extremely fast and even more so when I realize that today is
Wednesday and on Monday I’ll be back in my office in Springfield, Ohio wearing a necktie after 6 weeks of
liberation from that western curse. We are allowed to dress down at work on
Friday’s and I have some flashy African shirts to hang on me then. I’m ready to come home. Not sure I’ll be needed out here again next
year which is a good thing, because I feel that there are enough local trainers
who can do the job now. There will still
be a need for funding further training but not a great need for ‘foreign
experts’. Where shall I go next year? Will Zimbabwe be ready for an aging
mediator? The African Great Lakes
Initiative (AGLI) does not have any contacts down there.
Inside the American Embassy in
Bujumbura.
I managed to get through three layers of
security and into the consular section of the embassy on a Tuesday. You only get a shot at it on Tuesday’s and
Thursday’s. Once they had me in there, I
knew there was no getting out until they
said I could. Hoped I wouldn’t have to wait in there until Thursday. All the way inside, not a single American
made personal contact with me except maybe
indirectly on a TV monitor that could identify me by some secret
electronic device. The first ring of
guards were Burundian, and well armed I might add. The next outside ring of protection was also
manned by Burundians, and the third ring inside the first door was still
covered by Burundians. I guess that way
if any malcontent Burundians decided to storm the embassy and got themselves
killed, it could only be blamed on Burundians killing their own, which they are
very experienced at doing. American
staff could then walk away
uncriticized. “Hey we didn’t know what
those guys were capable of. Blackwater
said they did the background checks.”
If anyone from the NSA is reading this, please note that I have not
fully described the rings to give away any of my country’s secrets other than
the Tuesday/Thursday schedule. All other
days of the week, check the golf course or the beaches for consular officers.
Finally got to a thick plate glass window
where I was able to speak to a pleasant British woman with a lovely
accent. Wait a minute, didn’t we
liberate ourselves from y’all? Spared me
having to deal with a New Jersey screech and a diplomatic attitude. I sifted through the reading material on the
coffee table in the lounge. Nieman
Marcus catalogue, latest speech from the president of Ghana, and an agriculture
journal specializing in bull semen this month.
Homing instincts led me to the Nieman Marcus catalogue hoping for some
sexy ads. Alas all the models look like
androids on crystal meth.
Meanwhile a lot of people who knew the
magic code, had a micro chip embedded in their forehead, or were recognized by an invisible guard at
security ring number four could walk through a prison strength door and into the waiting lounge and on outside. Obviously a military operation of some sort
was in progress, because four people in
uniforms two navy(one of the female persuasion), one
airforce and the fourth army came out all revved up like they were going
somewhere important. There was a big
black SUV outside with a diplomatic flag on the fender, the ambassador? I have no idea who the ambassador might be
woman or man. In a small country like
Burundi, it could have been one of those
androidian models from Nieman Marcus.
Discussions were going on about who would ride shotgun. Then talk about where they were going. Sounded like it was two blocks away. Should I be worried? Was there an imminent threat from Al Queda? I had just walked those two blocks alone and
unarmed, holy shit!
Finally I launched an icebreaker. “What did you guys screw up to get stationed
here?” That got me a lot of cold
stares. Careers obviously were on the
line. Only later did I realize I could
have gotten a hot lead enema from these guys and gal.
Chinese Army on Bad Road to Nowhere
Between the Burundi capital of Bujumbura
and Uvira, the first big city in the Democratic Republic of the Congo lies
sixteen miles of roadway, two border checkpoints, several MONUC (United Nations
Military) fortresses, manned by Pakistani troops, smugglers disguised as taxi
drivers and three wheeled bicycles manned by polio victims also in the
smuggling game. On the Burundi side of
the border a small town of Gatunda lies alongside beach resorts for the diplomatic corps and
aid worker communities. On the Burundi side the road is paved and there appears
to be some infrastructure. Once you
enter into the DRC, all bets are off.
Patrols of MONUC, run up and down the rutted and pock marked dirt and
gravel road. Did an artillery barrage do
this or forty years of non maintenance?
The Pakistani’s I assume are counting their worry beads, glad they
aren’t running up and down the Swat Valley looking for terrorists. Somewhere out of all this confusion and
mayhem, a small team of Chinese UN soldiers is working a mechanical shovel
trying to repair the road, but making a bigger mess of it. When my overheating taxi gets up to the
repair crew, the shovel has half the road blocked by its presence and the other
half blocked by its digging. The
operator appears to be getting on the job training (OJT) , because I don’t
believe a tank could pass the open half of the road where he obviously has been
digging. Suddenly a Chinese sergeant
orders us through. I see no opening nor
does a Congolese policeman who runs up to the mess and starts picking up
boulders and tossing them off to the side.
The arm of the shovel is elevated now and the sergeant is insisting we
drive under the elevated arm so thoughtfully held there by the nervous trainee. We approach slowly. The Sarge’s name tag is in Roman letters,
probably by some MONUC directive. His
name tag reads Sgt. I. P. Wang. I’m not making this up.
By a miracle , we pass unscathed to head
out of the DRC and onto the Buj. Each
time the Burundi cops stop us for a shakedown, the taxi heats up worse. I know now that a 92 Toyota Corolla station
wagon with hundreds of thousands of miles on it, really doesn’t need a lot of
oil to keep running. We make it into Buj
with pistons and connecting rods to spare.
I ask to get off in the middle of town to avoid a final calamitous
breakdown.
Buying Eyeglasses in Burundi
Travelling last year through Burundi, I
learned that eyeglasses are relatively cheap.
In fact there are many optical shops in the city, most run by the Indian
community. I stopped in one and noticed
they had a very stylish selection.
Talked with the proprietor, a very pleasant fellow and asked about
prices and delivery. His price was good
and delivery was ten days to two weeks.
That fit my schedule as I’d be leaving the country in two weeks. He copied my prescription and did bifocals
instead of tri focals which I had been using for a long time. The order was then emailed to a manufacturer
in India where the lenses are made and fitted and then air freighted back to
Bujumbura. Sounded like a winner to me
except my hosts scheduled me against my insistence to go straight back to
Kigali, bypassing Bujumbura. I asked
one of the Quaker ladies to pick up the glasses for me, giving her my
receipt. The owner had said that if I
didn’t show up he would send them to the States as I had paid in advance. The lady was my back up plan just in
case. She could also pick them up and
mail them. After six months , I gave up
the ghost about getting the glasses and just about forgotten them.
But when I came through Bujumbura this year, I made plans to try to
remember where the shop was and go ask about the glasses. I talked also to Joyce the hamburger lady to
whom I had given the receipt to pick up the glasses. She said she went numerous times, but the manager wouldn’t give her the glasses,
saying she must have stolen the receipt.
Eventually she gave up, but she insisted on going with me, so that I could inform the owner that she was
not a thief. I was willing to do this
for her pride and also to see if the glasses were still there. When we walked in, he saw her and was about
to exit quickly then saw me, and said, ‘Oh, I’ve been waiting for you Mr.
Brose. I sent the glasses to your home
but they were returned.’ I verified
with him that Joyce was indeed not a thief, though he seemed to take no
recognition of this. But it satisfied
Joyce to hear me say it. After a year
to the day, I got my glasses. Irony is
they don’t seem to be very easy to get used to.
I’ll have to have them checked out at home to see if there is anything
that can be done.
A comment from an old Peace Corps buddy.
George,
I very much enjoy your essays. Thank you for all of them.
A year to get a pair of glasses has to be a record.
I may have set a record in the opposite direction.
Sometime in late 1966 or early 1967 I was in Dar and couldnt check into one of the dirt cheap places I favored and was darned if I was going to pay for one night at the Twiga, let alone the East African.
To save money, I did what any 23 year old idiot would do. I went down to the harbor, found a stone bench, took off my shoes, put them under my head and laid my glasses on the ground. In the middle of the night I woke to find my shoes and my glasses gone. I still had my wallet. And my life.
I spent the rest of a fitful night trying to sleep at the door of an optical shop near the Askari Monument. When the shop opened I was of course literally on their doorstep, with, by good luck, my prescription, which was in my wallet.
By noon I had my new glasses. And a pair of Bata sandals. And a resolve never to sleep in the open in Dar es Salaam again.
Charles